The Zadie jumpsuit from Paper Theory Patterns was not on the agenda for #memademay! For the first half of the month I stuck to my pledge of a more slow examination of my wardrobe and some long awaited adjustments. Even a couple of up-cycled refashions. Then one evening I was on instagram and had an overwhelming need to make something new! We had booked an overnight stay with dinner in a very nice Cornish hotel and I really wanted to have something I felt comfortable and cool in. I fancied a block colour linen dress and was very tempted by the Sew to Grow Charlianne Wrap Dress
I had some black linen blend fabric in my stash but unfortunately not enough. So then I got thinking about jumpsuits, and since I get on well with the seamwork fit I was also tempted by the Sky Jumpsuit. After lots of instagram investigation and I plumped for the Zadie. The wrap over front looked stylish, easy, and practical.
I think it can be worn dead casual, to a gorgeous wedding outfit and anything in between. All this brain frenzy took place one evening, resulting in a sleepless night. I really struggle to switch off sewing thoughts at night, especially when planning a new garment. Does anyone else suffer with SRI? Aka sewing related insomnia!
So, the next morning, my day off, I bought the pdf pattern, printed it and out stuck it together with masking tape. I’m usually a pritt sticker, but had run out. Then I needed to choose a size. In a ready to wear garment I am pretty much always a standard size 12 top and bottom. On the Zadie size chart I was also closest to their size 12. However looking at finished measurements there is a generous amount of ease in this jumpsuit as you’d expect from its relaxed style.
I really didn’t want too baggy, so decided to cut right between a 10 and 12. So, already to cut into that black linen, and then realise that its in fact quite narrow and there is no way it’s going to work. So a trip to the fabric shop is now a necessity! I am so lucky to have a very large fabric centre very close, so off I trot, (literally) it’s an eight minute walk. (I know very dangerous!!!) I have had to use extreme will power not to go too often! I find their linen section and have a good rummage through, holding different rolls up in front of the mirror. They did have black but now faced with an array of colour I found myself drawn to the red. Partly because of the just right shade of red and partly for its crispness. Some linens were more of the floppity kind and on this occasion that wasn’t what I wanted. I liked the crispness and slight sheen of the mustard one on the pattern cover.
Back home I put it straight in the washing machine on a 40 degree super quick wash and got it out on the line to dry. During this time and did all other chores for the day, including eating lunch (not a chore), so I could crack on and dedicate the rest of the day to the project.
The instructions are excellent, so I had no issues with the construction. I was a little confused what exactly was going to happen on the neck line, as I had read some had swapped binding for facing. Then I noted that the binding is fixed so that it is visible, not turned in as I originally had assumed. Therefore, I felt that despite my fairly bulky fabric that it would work well. I did have concerns that I wouldn’t be neat enough, but I took it very slowly, and did not use the method given in the instructions. I sewed the binding right sides together with the front openings and then after pressing turned it in and top stitched from the right side catching the binding inside. Lauren Guthrie has a great clear couple of YouTube videos that I referred to first. I slowed my machine right down to do this. The result looks crisp and with the top stitching I managed a really good neat finish. So I also decided to give the same treatment to the arm holes since I made the sleeveless version.
I used my overlocker to finish all the seam allowances and actually my linen didn’t fray much at all. The fabric was lovely to work with, a good stable woven.
So the fit… Well I did have a baggy bottom! Also a very low crotch seam. I probably could have got a way with leaving it but it was simple enough to just take in the entire back crotch seam all the way up and including an inch out of the waist seam making a small pleat that I don’t think looks out of place since there is one either side anyway.
Because of these adjustments, when I make my next I may well make a 10 on top and grade down to an 8 on the hips. I am already thinking about another, but what fabric???